I felt strangely nervous as our rental car crunched down the drive, and when the house itself came into view, I caught my breath. After religiously watching Escape to the Château DIY for years, seeing this 18th-century château for the first time felt like spotting a celebrity. And when owners Tim and Rebecca came out to greet us, I had to remind myself not to act like too much of a fangirl.
After all, for many years, our bedtime routine in the U.S. included watching at least one episode of Channel 4’s Escape to the Château DIY while dreaming of one day buying a French property of our own. The British reality series follows “plucky Brits” like Tim and Rebecca who have bought châteaux in France and are renovating them. We’ve been following along on their journey since they sold their home in the U.K. and moved to their then-derelict château with their two young sons. They’ve worked tirelessly to restore it over the years and they now run it as a luxury B&B.
That’s why, when we were planning a trip to France last summer, and I saw that they had a few dates available, I snagged them right away. And at the tail end of our two months in France, we made a significant detour between Bordeaux and Paris specifically to visit Château de la Ruche.
Tim (who’s just as friendly and funny as he is on the show) showed us to our rooms, taking us through the foyer with its original stone floors and gorgeous staircase, and across the cozy salon. We had booked the Meadow Suite, which has two bedrooms and a spacious bathroom. We set down our bags and I explored the rooms, taking in every thoughtful detail, from the massive wooden wardrobe that hid a wet bar stocked with local wine, to little bouquets Rebecca had plucked from the garden, to the antique chairs (which I remember Rebecca reupholstering in one episode) perched beside the windows overlooking the roses. Tim invited us to take a wander around the grounds, and our son immediately set out with Monty the dog, running down the trail into the woods to find the zipline.
Rebecca, a writer, had put together an incredibly thorough guide to the region, and I flipped through the book while sipping a glass of wine and planning our next few days. The Pays de la Loire region is scattered with some of the most famous châteaux in France along with many villages designated as some of the most beautiful in the country. We couldn’t wait to explore, but we also didn’t particularly want to leave Château de la Ruche. So for the rest of the day, we just stayed and enjoyed the peaceful estate.
It was raining that evening, so dinner was served in the candlelit salon, just adjacent to our rooms. Guests can opt in for meals during their stay, and knowing Rebecca’s reputation as a gifted cook, we didn’t want to miss out. We started on the sofa with a rhubarb G&T prepared by Tim as we chatted with the other guests, an older couple from England celebrating a milestone birthday. Tim then showed us to our tables and brought out a grazing board overflowing with cheese, charcuterie, and vegetables from the garden. The food was incredible, especially a baked rosemary and honey brie that I still dream of. We took our time and savored the experience of dining in such an atmospheric place. That night, we fell asleep with full bellies to the sound of heavy rain falling outside of our windows.
The next day was dreary and threatening rain again, but we didn’t mind. The château felt cozy and warm. We wandered into the salon, where breakfast was waiting for us at a round table beside the window. Homemade almond croissants, little pots of parfaits, fresh fruit, juice, and steaming hot coffee was far more than we could possibly consume, but we made a valiant effort. We discussed our plans for the day with Rebecca, who helped us shape an itinerary based on our interests.
We were tempted to spend the gray day relaxing at the château, especially when our son started playing with a boy staying with his family at the gite. But instead, we donned our raincoats and headed out to explore. We visited the breathtaking village of Saint-Ceneri-le-Gerei, officially designated as one of the most beautiful villages in France. Per Tim’s recommendation, we stopped for lunch at La Cave a Biere de Saint Leo, then drove around the Alpes Mancelles, an unexpectedly mountainous area of the Normandy-Maine Regional Nature Park. We ended the day in the small city of Le Mans, where we explored its medieval Plantagenet quarter and took in the epic light show after dinner.
Sadly, the following morning, it was already time to check out, but not before another indulgent breakfast in the salon. Before leaving, while our son took a few more turns on the zip line with his new friend, I visited the little chicken coop that Tim and Rebecca have converted into a mini brocante. I bought a few candles as souvenirs, wishing I had more space in my bags for a market basket and some of Rebecca’s carefully curated antiques. Next time.
Tim and Rebecca have worked so very hard to bring their château back to life, and now they are incredibly generous to share it with guests like us. And like many of their guests, I’m sure, we’re more inspired than ever to take on a similar project one day.
